Belmond British Pullman – Orient Express
May 6, 2016
“Sally, you’re going on the [Venice Simplon-]Orient-Express…!” were not words I had ever imagined myself hearing, and when I did I have no shame in admitting that I had a tear in my eye and felt almost nauseous with excitement. Not solely because it’s the ultimate journey for someone whose job is all about trains; in addition to that, over the years, I had spent many an afternoon in my grandmother’s room in our family home, engrossed in the adventures of one impeccably-moustached Hercule Poirot of “Murder on the Orient Express” fame. My grandmother had passed away earlier that same year and it was a very special thing to be offered - I was absolutely delighted.
Once you have discovered the joy of travelling by train, it gets in the blood; you start to loathe airports and baggage reclaim and look to see how much of your trip could conceivably be completed by rail. Rail travel is also a great way to decrease your carbon-footprint, but that doesn’t mean you can’t do it in style! The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express is – without a doubt – the most sought-after rail travel journey of all, if not a highly-coveted travel experience in its own right outside the realms of rail enthusiasts. When I meet people for the first time and tell them what I do for a living, the first thing they ask me is almost always “have you been on [Venice Simplon-]Orient-Express?”, and of course, I can reply “Yes, I have!” It’s a brilliant ice-breaker and something I am immensely pleased to have done – I am also extremely grateful to have been given the opportunity.
After a couple of nights in Venice, I was met at my hotel and personally escorted by Belmond’s representatives to St Lucia station. I boarded the train at around 11am on a very grey and rainy day in October but the dismal weather was soon chased away by the warm and cheerful smiles from members of the immaculate on-board team who are there to proudly welcome you on the red-carpeted platform (including the Chief Steward, the Maitre D’ and Head Chef). An equally-amenable steward will escort you to your private cabin and give you something cool and fizzy, served in dazzling cut-glass, to help you settle in and unwind.
By this point in my career, I had talked about this train to customers and colleagues alike at great length, so I knew a lot about it, but I was not prepared for quite how incredible it is. It’s important to take your time and really appreciate the detail of your surroundings and thus you will understand why it comes with the price-tag. Each unique carriage has been lovingly restored and has its own fascinating history - details of which can be found in an inscribed plaque at each entrance way - so I walked along the train reading about the origins of some of these near-100-year-old passenger cars. For instance, some were built in France, some in England, some have connections with royalty across Europe, several formed part of the famous luxury train Le Train Bleu in the late 1920s, some were decorated by the renowned designer Rene Prou and one even has a rather more saucy past as a brothel during the Second World War! The oldest of all, dating back to 1926, is Sleeping Car 3309, which formed part of the rolling stock of the original “Orient Express”, travelling on the route between Paris to Istanbul and was marooned for 10 days in a snow drift outside Istanbul – an incident which became the inspiration for the afore-mentioned world-famous and critically acclaimed crime novel “Murder on The Orient Express” by Agatha Christie.
Each carriage features different decorative touches to the last; the colours of the wood in the corridors and the exquisite patterns in the marquetry within the bijou cabins change as you go along the train – which you should absolutely do! - for me one of the most exciting parts of the trip was walking along the corridors, you really feel like you’re on a movie set, or have gone back in time by a century. The wood-panelling is so pristine you can see your face in it, and I loved how the light and reflections from the picture-windows bounced off the polished wood as the train made its way along the tracks, shifting slightly from side-to-side as it goes.
In my cabin was a beautiful frieze of tiny hand-cut pieces of wood collated into a colourful arrangement of flowers and foliage, set against the dark cherry-coloured wood of the cabin walls and door. Even the upholstery throughout the train is intricately elaborate, finished with lace head and armrests. A set of wooden doors opens a self-lighting vanity unit, complete with mirror, sink with running hot and cold water, plug socket for shavers or small hairdryers and a (frankly, fabulous) toiletries kit at your disposal. Elegant blue-and-white kimono dressing gowns are provided for you to lounge in and after an afternoon of watching the European countryside go by from your cabin with high tea, or with your fellow travellers in the Bar Car “3674”, it’s time to get ready for dinner. Dress to impress… There is no such thing as overdressed here!
Dinner is a sumptuous affair, in both surroundings and culinary delights. The dining cars feature some of the most ornate and impressive marquetry of all, with detailed Rene Lalique glassware and panelling lending an overall feeling of opulence. Then there is the food… it is nothing short of exceptional, cooked fresh in the train’s tiny galley kitchen by the team of chefs, using seasonal produce from the regions the train passes through and served on the finest china and silverware. After dinner, enjoy a cocktail and mingle in the bar area which, along with its resident pianist, will remain at your disposal until the last person is standing.
By whatever time you decide to retire, your steward (who is available 24/7) will have transformed your cabin into cosy sleeping quarters with pristine linens to slip into as the train continues its voyage throughout the night, gently rocking you to sleep.
When you awake, simply call for your steward at a time of your choice and they will bring a mouth-watering array of freshly ground coffee, teas and pastries for you to sample. Once you have freshened up it is time for brunch and complimentary fizz as you make your way from Calais, through the Eurotunnel by luxury motor coach and on to the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express’ British counterpart, the British Pullman, a Belmond Train, to complete the final leg of the journey between Folkestone and London Victoria (please note this section does not run in December or from 2024 onwards).
In 2018, the Grand Suites were introduced affording the highest level of comfort with full double beds, private dining and lounge area, full en-suite shower room, and free-flowing Champagne along with a host of other luxuries. Travel in style at its very best!
NEW FOR 2023 - Belmond have revealed eight stunning new suites available to book on board the iconic Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, meaning there are now three different ways to enjoy a journey on the most famous train of all time. The new suites feature lower beds (double or twin) and private en-suite facilities, offering a more luxurious alternative to the existing entry-level Historic Twin Cabins and bridging the price gap to the highest category Grand Suites. They will be available on journeys departing from June 2023 onwards, and are subject to availability. These cabins have been designed with the landscape in mind, taking inspiration from the forests, lakes, mountains and countryside of Europe to create a beautiful new intermediate offering.
(suites incur a supplement where available)
