Switzerland by Rail

After an early flight to Zurich airport, we were ready for a late morning train from Zurich rail station to our first destination.  The main train line out of Zurich is easily accessible from the airport and everything is incredibly well signposted, with live train updates on electronic screens throughout the station and platforms, on the side of each carriage and also within each carriage as well.

We had all been issued with a Swiss Travel Pass for the duration of our journey, which gives unlimited travel on fixed consecutive days, and these can be purchased for 3, 4, 6, 8 and 15 days in either first or second class and are full refundable up to four working days before the first date of validity.

As well as making travel very easy (the pass can be printed or downloaded to a handheld device so as to show the QR code when requested on the trains) the passes give unlimited travel in Switzerland by train, bus, boat and public transport. It also includes free entrance into over 500 museums and also access to Rigi, Stanserhorn, Stoos, Brunni and Klewenalp.

Our first stop was Mount Rigi and a 40-minute train ride took us to Arth-Goldau where we picked up the historic cogwheel railway to take us to Rigi Kaltbad station, which was first established in 1871. In the summer months there is an open carriage train available which gives breathtaking views as you climb slowly up the mountain. Each displays a QR code so that you can trace the history of the carriage you are in. In colder months there are enclosed carriages that operate, and these are the main transportation for those living on the mountain, serving as commuter train and school transport for the children living there.

En-route to our hotel for the night, we took a scenic walk down to the Kräuterhotel Edelweiss, a hotel that has been in the same family for 4 generations and has a Michelin Star restaurant which features products and herbs from their garden on the menu, including many herbs which they use to make their own versions of cola drink, gin, tonic and lemonade.  The rooms there are spacious and comfortable in the Swiss style, some having balconies with views over the opposite mountains.

A short walk took us to our hotel for the night, the Hotel Rigi Kaltbad a hotel that has direct access to the Mario Botto mineral bath and spa, fine dining and room with spectacular views over the mountains opposite. I was lucky enough to be assigned one of these rooms and I had to pull myself away from the window as I was entranced as to how the changing light as the sun set affected the colour of the mountains opposite.

A later thunderstorm gave us a spectacular light show and the light afterwards was magical. The food and service there is excellent and there is a well laid out and varied buffet breakfast available.

The next morning we took the funicular cog train from Rigi Kaltbad station, which is next to the hotel, down the mountain which gave us another stunning view down to the lake below, and then took a variety of trains and buses to Stechelberg.

Here we took three separate cable cars to get us up to Schilthorn and to where we were having lunch, Piz Gloria, which is world famous for its 360 degree revolving restaurant and as the film location for the iconic Bond movie ‘On Her Majesty’s Secret Service’.

As well as having lunch in a revolving restaurant with unbelievable views, there is also a large viewing platform at Piz Gloria as well as access to  the ‘Thrill Walk’, a steel structure built into the side of the rock, which is incredibly sturdy and accessible (as long steps are not a problem) and added an extra ‘frisson’ of excitement to the walk.

Naturally, Piz Gloria has embraced the James Bond theme within the restaurant, and this extends even to the toilets, however this is all done very tastefully and is a treat for any Bond fan. There is also an interactive exhibition dedicated to the films, including numerous props from the film (including the helicopter chassis and bob sleigh from the film) which have a very interactive element to them, and a cinema showing seven key scenes from the film. All of these are free of charge and included in the cost of the cable car pass to get to Schilthorn.

From there, there are two cable cars to take you to the car-free village of Murren, which sits at the foot of Schilthorn and is built in the traditional Swiss style with a number of hotels, shops and restaurants to ensure a comfortable stay along with, again, stunning views of the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau mountains.

Our first stop was a quick look around the village’s flagship hotel, the Hotel Eiger. The hotel has a comfortable lounge area, decorated in a homely style, as well as a couple of small intimate bar areas as well as a more formal restaurant. As well as the usual single, double and twin rooms, there are also a number of 1, 2 and 3 bedroomed suites available.  There is a sauna and steam room at the hotel as well as a small pool and outside terrace with loungers.

After our visit here we had time for a walk up into the hills behind the village. I was reminded that walking uphill at 1600 metres above sea level was a bit more challenging than my usual hiking around the flats of Suffolk. Murren is the highest village in the canton that is inhabited all year round.

After our walk we checked into our hotel for the night, the Hotel Alpenruh. This chalet style hotel again is decorated in the traditional pale wood style, however nice touches in the décor make the hotel feel more modern. The rooms are large and very comfortable, and some have balconies and (again) amazing views over the mountain ranges behind the hotel.  

The staff are friendly and the food delicious, and it is just a short walk from there to the train station in Murren for our journey to Brig to pick up the Glacier Express to St Moritz.

I had been looking forward to a journey on the Glacier Express for some time and I was not disappointed. Comfortable seats, large panoramic windows that reached up and into the roof and table service made for a very comfortable and enjoyable journey indeed. First class was a little less crowded than second class, as more space is allowed for the seating, however the levels of service remain the same.

Free headsets are available for the commentary that would be indicated By a ‘bong’ on the tannoy at key points along the journey which highlighted the history and features of the area. The 6-hour journey seemed to go very quickly and before too long we were in our next stop, St Moritz.

The town is a short car journey from the train station, and a lot of the hotels run their own shuttle buses. We were staying at the hotel Laudinella which is a recent merging of two separate hotels. The ground area public lounge and bar area is huge and airy with ample seating for groups with the restaurant area off to one side where there is a substantial buffet available nightly as well as a full breakfast buffet service each morning. Rooms are modern and comfortable, some with a balcony and the bathrooms are very modern and chic.

The next morning brought an early check out and hotel shuttle to the train station to catch our last epic train journey, the Bernina Express.  I had heard that this was even better than the Glacier Express, which I had though would be hard to top, and I wasn’t disappointed. This train, although not having the table service, was a little more basic, but with the smaller tables, it felt a lot more airy and less cramped. The windows were bigger (with built in blinds if the sun got too much).

The views though are the main feature of this journey. This train passes through much more varied countryside and gets to much higher altitudes, until you are above the tree line in landscape that almost emulates the Scottish Highlands. The lakes go from deep blue to turquoise, then a milky aqua green, from the minerals in the glacier run off water and everything appears as if it is super HD 3d. With the airiness of the carriages and the huge windows, it is easy to enjoy the views on both sides of the carriage wherever you sit.

Our journey was to take us to Tirano in Italy (it is always very bizarre for those of us on an island to be able to pass so easily into another country) and we could see the style of the houses change from Swiss to Italian as we approached the town. Tirano is an ideal place to break the journey, with a number of restaurants and cafes a short walk from the train. There is also the opportunity to leave baggage at the station (which would be beneficial to book in advance).

Our onward journey after lunch was the 4-hour journey to Chur, Switzerland’s oldest town. Again, this passed through impressive scenery and the journey time passed very quickly. Our last hotel of the trip was at the Hotel Stern, 360 years old historic   4-star hotel in the centre of Chur, a 10-minute walk from the train station. The hotel is very traditional, serving authentic Swiss cuisine and is decorated with a number of old Swiss artefacts. Despite its age there is a lift in the hotel (this doesn’t go to the top floor) and there is also an outside terrace on the third floor. As was the case in all the hotels, the staff were amazingly friendly and helpful and couldn’t do enough for us.  The décor and bathroom were a little more basic however it was still a lovely hotel in a great area.

On our last morning we embarked on a walking tour of Chur with a local guide, which was something I would definitely recommend. Chur is a beautiful town full of history and it was interesting to hear the town’s story told by a local resident. It was a fitting way to say goodbye to a country that had truly captured my heart.